3d printing and more

print-specific completion parts


  • Ender 3 - recommended as a good balance between cost and quality/function by some of the Deterrence Dispensed community. There seems some controversy as to whether it's better to get the "pro" vs. upgrade components on the 3 (jstark recommends against the pro). See jstark's deterrence dispensed printing guide on keybase.io which includes specific recommended upgrades
  • Prusa - newest model as of 8/2019 is the mk3s. Costs more, more features. Consider avoiding the Multimaterials Unit (MMU2) given it is quite buggy and at ~beta level of development, particularly for the price.


  • eSUN PLA+: consider for FMDA prototypes. Rationale: supposedly increased strength vs. PLA, & since many people use it there is reproducibility element. Indefinite life-span with slow-fire. Will likely melt if exposed to very hot temperatures (e.g. left in hot car). Will develop malfunctions with sustained larger-volume mag-dumps due to heating of components against frame.
  • other PLAs: outside of USA, eSUN PLA+ may not be readily available. properties of PLA+ from different manufacturers may vary widely, but may be much more affordable in other regions
  • nylon-based materials: require modifications to most print setups, but should withstand higher temperatures much better (what most industrial firearm polymers are composed of) - e.g.:
  • note this industry is rife with bullshit marketing. look for 3rd party verification of marketing material and/or recommendations by trusted knowledgable individuals

printing abrasive materials

Materials like reinforced nylons are comparatively abrasive vs. filaments like PLA, and will damage most standard brass nozzles. General recommendations for printing with these abrasive filaments include:
  • all-metal hotend (new Prusa's have this by default
  • hardened nozzle: replace the brass ones for e.g. hardened steel

printer calibration

For Enders please see the det_disp printing guide. For Prusa the manufacturer recommendations are not remotely sufficient to calibrate the printer. Consider the following in your calibration:
  • idler tension: start with completely loosened. use manual controls to move extruder motor, filament should not move because of looseness. slowly start screwing in screw until just grabs filament. after this tighten by a few complete turns (e.g. 2). Note that Prusa guides have variable and sometimes contradictory information on this (sometimes flush with side, sometimes not; sometimes mentioned filament is not in, others times is noted in)
  • set filament thickness: most filament seems not the marketed thickness. use calipers to more exactly measure and input this into your slic3r to reduce over & under extrusion
  • e-steps: use a program like pronterface to directly control printer. measure and mark filament 120mm from set point on extruder top (rulers work well, try to keep straight as possible without pulling/pushing filament). extrude slowly 100mm of filament. remeasure remaining distance to initial mark. calculate over-under extrusion. change printer esteps if necessary based on this. recommend doing a few trials before adjusting esteps given potential e.g. measurement error. related references:
  • z-offset
    • run through Prusa's recommendation to set the probe & nozzle height before running z-calibration program
    • run the default z-calibration program to grossly estimate z-height
    • repeatedly print a one-layer square ~5cm per side to calibrate first layer - bend the finished print and look for diagonal holes which will be evidence when nozzle is too far away to evenly "squish" the adjacent layers, as well as when nozzle gets too close to efficiently extrude the filament (cautious re bed scratches when this close)
  • calibration prints: various models attempt to help diagnose printer & filament optimization parameters. some useful ones include:
    • temperature towers: help identify optimal temperatures for a given filament
    • cubes: caliper measurements help identify inaccuracies along specific dimensions


  • Ender: Cura is generally recommended
  • Prusa: slic3r Prusa Edition is default and what is generally recommended


3d gun printing generally
Legality of 3d printed guns and gun-parts varies by jurisdiction. In most/many parts of the USA, 3d printing firearms is for the most part indistinct from completing an 80% serialized firearm part like the p80. Similiar to p80 firearms, there are commonly restrictions on transferring these firearms to others.

automatic fire, suppressors, etc.
Note that while chats in related groups will feature designs or demonstrations involving features like automatic fire, this does not necessarily entail any unlawful activity. Collaborators with appropriate licenses have assisted in such work.


works in progress

There are many more in-progress projects than listed here - please message me if you think a notable project should be added.
  • fcg-9 (jstark + ivan): 9mm pistol with ECM barrel
  • plastikov (ivan): ak containing 3d printed parts
  • mac daddy (FMDA): mac-10
  • glock magazine adapter for AR15 lower (458socom)
  • polyplinker (point9cmbenis): AR15-22
  • armor piercing ammo (austin)
  • mossberg 500 pistol grip (windowstheos)
  • remington model 11 (windowstheos)
  • revisions to FMDA/Ivan g17 (d33pthought)


see maduce's fosscad git

3d modeling


  • popular clients include:
  • to fund wallets:
    • it is best to legally acquire directly from trusted people
    • exchanges like coinbase and gemini release all your information to authorities (regardless of legality)
    • reminder that bitcoin is not anonymous: it involves a public ledger
    • technologies exist to decrease identification of bitcoins (e.g. "coin-mixing" and intermediate conversion through other coins like monero)


Despite being legal in most parts of the USA, research into 3d gun printing may elicit unwanted scrutiny in more totalitarian countries. Following are some tools/techniques/thoughts for potentially increasing digital privacy, depending on need for various levels of security/privacy.
  • operating system: Tails or qubes
  • internet access options:
    • TOR network
    • VPN: e.g. Mullvad
    • unless you really know what you are doing re packet routing, don't use both TOR & vpn at the same time. refs:
      • tails page on vpns
      • the large intelligence agencies likely have p0wned many VPN services, including those outside their official jurisdictions
  • browser if not using Tails/TOR: consider Firefox with privacy config such as privacy badger & noscript plugins, & using site containers
  • use duckduckgo instead of google
  • hard drive encryption: Veracrypt (e.g. triple cascading algorithms, hidden volumes)
  • operational security:
    • connectivity:
      • public wifi
      • randomly use different WAPs
      • avoid security cameras
      • use range-extending antennas
    • dead man switches
    • be armed
    • don't ask, don't tell
    • assume tyrannical, irrational, and unhinged agents of the state are around

other unofficial DD pages